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Shrimp Étouffée
Creamy Rice with Tomatoes
To me, Cajun seasonings are one of the great universal mysteries. In the store you only seem to find them in rows of familiar and less familiar pre-packaged names, all touting some ambiguous “secret family recipe”, or spouting claims to be the “true taste of the old bayou.” Despite never having been to the South, making me particularly unqualified for such an investigation, I decided to do some digging on traditional Cajun flavors. Luckily for me (and my ever patient dinner guests), the trick to traditional Cajun flavors isn’t nearly as difficult as I imagined.
I started with what I knew, shrimp (shellfish are a perennial favorite in my house) and butter, and wound up with shrimp étouffée. In French, étouffée is the word for “to smother”, and the key to this dish is just that, absolutely suffocating the shrimp in a myriad of spices and (of course) lots of butter. I didn’t quite make a traditional version, so purists be warned. I couldn’t manage to get my hands on crawfish, and I added some freshly chopped tomatoes to my creamy rice, which could be called gumbo by the more orthodox of southern cooks. The recipe I based my version of this dish on is from Cuisine at Home, which, if I may say so again, gives a truly foolproof stock of ideas.
The dish is actually relatively easy, if demanding of constant attention, the shrimp and sauce won’t take you more than 45 min, and the rice should be about half an hour. The trick here is to stick to the basics, if you strip Cajun cooking bare of its mystique you are left with a few key ingredients: onions, bell peppers, and celery, added to a red roux flavored with garlic and chili powder.
This dish is spicy, so you won’t want to try it with a very acidic wine. Pair it with an off-dry white or a fruity red with a low alcohol content, or better yet, try it with an amber ale type beer (the lower alcohol content of beer will be a better mesh with the spicy seasoning). As it turns out, most seafood seasonings popular in southern cuisine today were developed in order to encourage bar patrons to order beer, as crabs were so plentiful most bars in places like Baltimore offered them as free snacks.
You can even make this dish ahead of time, simply freeze it in a Tupperware (or other freezer safe container) for up to a month.
serves 4
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